Behind the Sciences

High Gloss

With any product development at Kryolan, there are certain processes and procedures that are followed. The first thing is always the concept itself. How does the whole initiative begin?


With any product development at Kryolan, there are certain processes and procedures that are followed. The first thing is always the concept itself. How does the whole initiative begin?
Ideas are born through many different sources, sometimes it’s an idea directly from our CEO Wolfram Langer, or one of his son’s, our Managing Directors Sebastian and Dominik. The Langer family are still heavily involved with each product that materializes within the Kryolan labs. It is a passion that has been inherited from Wolfram’s father and founder of Kryolan Arnold Langer. Their ideas come from considerable knowledge of the industry and also from their discussion with Kryolan partners and customers. Other ideas come directly from make-up artists, both from within our own Pro Team and externally. It can be that an idea is sparked directly from science itself, a new raw material becomes available, or a new color creates excitement. Then of course there is the marketing department that extensively researches into emerging trends and closely follow the evolution of the ever-changing make-up industry. High Gloss emerged as a result of necessary re-development. There are some products and formulas that are timeless and just as effective today as they were when they were developed seventy plus years ago. “… we also need to be able to critically assess existing lines to ensure we meet the expectations of the industry and our customers.” says Dominik Langer, and it was through this practice that the lip gloss Kryolan produced at the time was highlighted as needing modernizing and rejuvenation.

Brainstorming Formulas

Inspiration literally flows from every angle and the most important thing is to bring the heads together of everyone involved within the research and development teams to ‘build the bones’ of the new concept. The R & D department is led by our head chemist, Dr. Jochen Gottfriedsen. At this stage in the life of a new product it is essential for him to identify the defining properties of the product. Especially when it comes to application, performance and overall impression, before he and his team can begin the next phase of defining the formula. The initial things to consider, Gottfriedsen outlines, are:

• Scope of application (e.g. U-HD, special effects, underwater, daily wear)
• Target group (body art, theater, TV and film, fashion, special effects, beauty)
• Method of application (e.g. brush, sponge)
• Color and coverage
• Durability on skin
• Stability towards water
• Texture (e.g. silky feeling)
• Odor (perfume)
• Removability
• Additional/functional effects (SPF, soothing, smoothing, filling, anti-age)

Through research by the marketing department, and gathering opinions of professional make-up artists and consumers alike, the properties that were outlined of upmost importance for High Gloss were high viscosity, so that the gloss would not bleed into the fine lines around the lips, non-sticky, so that the product was comfortable to wear and an increased reflection for an intense high-shine. The main target group was predominantly beauty and fashion, but with all lines within the Kryolan range, it should also be something that other areas of expertise would find suitable should they identify a need for it. Basically, all products we produce need to have that high-performance level that could withstand all professional make-up application requirements, so durability is usually high on the list of attributes.

Kryolan is famously known for its extensive range and diversity of color, so in our usual style, the range had to house a plethora of shades catering for every possible need or desire. It doesn’t stop there either, understanding the needs of all our customers also means identifying a demand for a variety of finishes for High Gloss. Sheer and full coverage versions were to be created along with a few options containing mica for a unique, sparkling finish. Not only should the product embody all of these characteristics, but it also was important that it had an ingredient to ensure it was caring for the skin, vitamin E was selected to help increase the skins barrier function, along with its benefits of moisturizing and healing skin. Very important factors when selecting ingredients for potentially sensitive areas of skin such as the lips.
Once these points have been agreed the next stage is to choose raw materials and create the basic formula that would deliver the defined requirements. It’s time to get to work!

The Importance of Packaging

While the team in the lab are busy working on the basic formula, other departments start to work on their tasks. Packaging plays an important role not only in the sale of a product, but also in its function and development stage. Knowing the final packaging can be a key element when it comes to designing the formula. It may affect what the consistency needs to be like among other things. High Gloss was to be in a clear acrylic tube with a brush wand built into the lid, one of the preferred styles of packaging for lip gloss users. When selecting packing it isn’t only the function that is important. Marketing work alongside the packaging department, spend time researching latest’s trends, functionality, aesthetic and design. All key factors in creating a successful and user-friendly product. Some glosses, due to their formula can separate a little while in the tube, although this isn’t necessarily an indication that something is wrong with the formula it isn’t attractive for the user either. Therefore, the High Gloss formula had to be stable enough not to separate and look beautiful in the tube as well as on the lips. It was also decided that the applicator wand inside the tube should be clear, to showcase the full impact of color of the gloss itself without distraction. A stopper was also important to seal the opening of the lid and help wipe off excess product as the brush is released before application, all the little details are carefully thought through.

Meeting Regulations

After several rounds of our make-up Pro Team and invited team members testing samples and the lab team tweaking the formula to perfection the High Gloss needs to undergo a stability test. Before large scale production of the product can be carried out. Dr. Gottfriedsen comments “The formula has to be filled into its final packaging and placed into heat cabinet which has a constant temperature of 40 degrees Celsius. This test basically replicates how long the product will last in its packaging after production and must meet strict regulations to pass this stage.” The team left the High Gloss formula in the heat cabinet for three months carrying out regular checks to see if there were any changes to the formula. Once it passed the 3 months incubation period without any changes in stability it could then begin the various other cosmetic regulation tests. In the lab up to 250g can be created by hand with the help of small machinery, specific for the creative process. Once the formula has been approved the process of upscaling can then take place in the production department on much larger machinery. Upscaling can face its own challenges, once higher volumes of ingredients are used it can have an effect on the original end results, sometimes due to the difference in cooling and heating during production. During the scale up 10kg is usually produced initially, this is enough to make around 2,500 High Gloss in a specific color. In addition to this there are many other phases the product has to go through in order to be ready for sale. A Product Information File including the safety report for cosmetics, patch tests on skin and many more.

The birth of High Gloss and rebirth of lip gloss!

Once all the cosmetic regulations had been met, checked, checked again and signed off, and all departments are happy with the final product, it can then be prepared for mass production and sale. High Gloss was first released back in 2008 since then the whole range has continually been updated and edited, the marketing department keep their fingers on the pulse by identify emerging trends and releasing new stunning shades catering for both the beauty and fashion industry. It still comes in sheer, full coverage and sparkling shimmer, all with that all-important ultra-shine super gloss finish. This month we celebrate the success of High Gloss with our campaign #summerhigh. At the turn of the new decade, as we began the modern era of the 20’s, we saw lip gloss make a huge come back. Fashion and beauty trends across the globe said goodbye to the matt lip and turned their attentions to gloss finishes! With its unique formula, non-tacky, color intensive, increased reflection, long-lasting durability and comfortable to wear, it’s easy to see why High Gloss reigns this summer.

Global Head of Make-up Paul Merchant said:

“It’s so refreshing to see gloss back on trend over the past few seasons, High Gloss has always been a must have in my kit, quite literally by the bucket load! Products that give such intense shine are hard to come by, I know it’s always going to deliver exactly what I need on set. That’s what I look for in any product, it has to perform and High Gloss certainly does that, every time.”